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Waydin_Stewart

Smarty won’t communicate!

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Hello, I am kinda new here. I’ve been a member for a while now but not very active. I have had a smarty s-03 since May I believe. I haven’t had it long. I’ve akready had it sent back to Brian and his team at smarty to be rebuilt cause it had an error message. I have a 2002 and 1998.5 ecm. I have a 1998.5 dodge. I bought a flash program from Brian to make the 2002 work on my truck but I have no communication with either ecm connected to my truck. I have a brand new alternator, brand new cable ends, dielectric grease everywhere, I’ve tried my best with the wiring but I just can’t seem to figure it out. I have a post on moparman’s website about this topic but it’s no longer active. Does anyone have any idea where to start diagnosing at? I have a friend who is a body shop person who knows a little about the wiring and is willing to help but he’s never messed with a diesel. Anything will help at this point!

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22 minutes ago, Rob D said:

Why did you change ecm's?  Was there a problem with the original?

I thought there was a problem causing the no communication but after buying a 2002 ecm I found out it still wouldn’t communicate. I had the 1998.5 ecm rebuilt cause the throttle capacitor quit working so I thought maybe the company that rebuilt it did it. 

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Ok and have you done anything to rule out a wiring issue with the obd connector on your truck?

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Here is a pinout of how your connector should be setup.  Pay particular attention to ensuring pins 7 and 14 have the correct wires and the contacts are in good shape.

 

We're you able to apply the recovery file Brian sent you?

obdII.gif

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I couldn’t get the 1.25 or recovery file to work. With 1.26 it is key on and off. With recovery file it says error 14. I just deleted my grid heater 2 days ago. I was just curious and reaching for anything so I took my voltmeter and checked the voltages on the batteries again. They read 12.7 with the key off and 12.4 with the key on. Brian said the ecm prefers 12.6. Will 12.4 cause this. Also, in the process of testing the smarty I took it out of its holder under the dash and it’s dangling now. So now when I plug it in and before I took it out I have to force the smarty onto the obd and with it dangling I have to hold it in place for itlthe smarty to stay on. Before I started probing the pins it wasn’t as bad but it still happened a few times where I had to hold it

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20 minutes ago, Rob D said:

Here is a pinout of how your connector should be setup.  Pay particular attention to ensuring pins 7 and 14 have the correct wires and the contacts are in good shape.

 

We're you able to apply the recovery file Brian sent you?

obdII.gif

How do I test them? I’m super uneducated when it comes to wiring. My father used to just shrugs me off when I ask for his help when it came to wiring so i don’t know much.

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I would check pin 16 to pins 4 and 5 to make sure you have good power and grounds are working.

 

If that checks out verify pin 7 has a wire that is pink with a dark blue tracer stripe (best I can tell for colors) and pin 14 should be a white wire with a violet Tracer stripe.

 

If that checks out the next step would be making sure the wires are intact all the way to the ecm...  before we get there let me know what you find from above.

 

Does your truck run and are you using g the new ecm from the 2002?

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1 minute ago, Rob D said:

I would check pin 16 to pins 4 and 5 to make sure you have good power and grounds are working.

 

If that checks out verify pin 7 has a wire that is pink with a dark blue tracer stripe (best I can tell for colors) and pin 14 should be a white wire with a violet Tracer stripe.

 

If that checks out the next step would be making sure the wires are intact all the way to the ecm...  before we get there let me know what you find from above.

 

Does your truck run and are you using g the new ecm from the 2002?

Yes the truck runs on both ecm. It will jerk and jive in first start up with the 2002 but then smooths our and will lope hard when I try to move it. But it runs fine on the 1998.5 ecm. I deleted my grid heater, I’ll unhook the fuse for my airdog, I’ll also unhook my quadzilla programmer(which I bought cause the smarty wouldn’t work) and I’ll test those pins. Thank you for helping!

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Ahh, other programmers....

 

Before you do ANYTHING with the smarty make sure the other programmers have been set back to stock and are removed.

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4 minutes ago, Rob D said:

Ahh, other programmers....

 

Before you do ANYTHING with the smarty make sure the other programmers have been set back to stock and are removed.

It didn’t communicate before I put it on there. And while I tried to use the recovery file I had airdog and everything else I hooked but I’ll do it again. 

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What is the exact model of your quadzilla?  I think leaving the airdog in place should be ok.  Maybe someone else can jump in if they know better.

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Pin 16 to 4 is 12.41

Pin 16 to 5 is 12.41

pin 7 is pink with dark blue line

pin 14 is white with purple stripe

 

the quadzilka is the quadzilla w/iquad. I thought I purchased a quadzilka v2 but turns out I got sent the old v1 platform. I am going to ship it to quadzilka to have them update it to v2 eventually.

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I'm reading in the quadzilla install instructions that the unit also plugs into the ecm service bus under the hood.  I'd bet your next paycheck that this will cause problems, if not now down the road.  Whatever ecm you have been using with the quadzilla you need to set back to stock, remove quadzilla and retry smarty.

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I have set the quadzilka back to level 0(stock) and unhooked my airdog, quadzilka, and abs fuse, I am diagnosing the oroblem with the 1998.5 ecm in it. I haven’t hooked the 2992 ecm uo to it in 2 months cause it runs like trash with it in there and not flashed to work on the 1998.5.

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GOT it! I messed up the pins in my obd port so I will have to go to a salvage yard to get a new connector to splice in. I rounded the pin Holes with my volt meter. I am so happy right now! I have to have the smarty smashed I rock the port perfectly firm it to program but I put level 9 on. I will run the smarty on even numbers if I decide to use the quadzilka for more power on top. Thank you so much! BTW It was the IOD fuse with the black cover over it. The end was tarnished and wasn’t make solid connection. My batteries read 12.59 now! I pooped my pants whenever I seen the sw:stock come up

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Very cool!  Glad you got it working!  I'm not sure if your quadzilla will offer you anything over what your smarty can do...  there may be no benefit to running both.

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The quadzilka Adrenaline is a 180hp/420ft-lb programmer while the smarty is a 65hp/175lb-lb gain? Or somewhere around that? Why wouldn’t the quadzilka offer more power? I turned the smarty to level 8 a second ago. While it was on level 9/9 it felt like I had my quadzilka on level 3/10 or 4/10. Am I imagining this? I might be cause I’m just so happy that I got the smarty working!

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Probably a problem with the ccd pin on the obd connector.  Ccd is a separate network in your truck, I think abs is on it.

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I’ll get back on here whenever I get a new connector and splice it in and let you know what I figure out. Thanks for the help! Also I had the high idle on the quadzilka turned in and if it’s in stock it’ll go into it after 15seconds and the smarty shut the truck off on me twice because it thought the truck was over fueling haha

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