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Leez2wags

Newbie to the cummins world

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Hey smarty people! 

 

Just got my 2004 CTD (early 04) 

 

been playing with the smarty touch I got for it, loving the fuel mileage on Sw5 and Sw7 so far been great. 

 

Trans is stock and I just have a cold air and a straight 4” exhaust on it as well as running loyds fuel additive to hopefully keep the high pressure system happy for many more miles.

 

i do have a race trans (NADP) in mind for it if I do start to have issues with mine and I’m defiantly replacing it before I do a large RV trip to Ontario from Alberta later this July! 

 

Okay for one one small question... I got my love for this truck after a friend of mine bought an 06 mega and and ran a smarty jr. on the 100hp tune. That truck was an animal. Just loved how much raw power it had. 

 

Now ive been running my truck with the smarty recommended settings (all on 1) in SW#7 and it all doesn’t seem that crazy really. 

 

Should I be messing with the timing and torque settings to better manipulate the tune to be a bit more aggressive? 

 

Im going to start with setting 2 and 2 on rail and torque settings and see how it feels. I do monitor egt’s and mine aren’t terrible so im

debating running timing on setting 2 as well. 

 

I assume this should make the truck noticeably more aggressive? And some more down low torque once the Convertor is locked? 

 

Any feedback is appreciated! 

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Congrats on that early 04.

 

You should receive some good advice from the members on here.

 

It is quick and easy to change the optional parameters so feel free to experiment.

 

I like to use greater timing for the efficiency and I go easy on the rail pressure. TQ I use a less aggressive setting for daily driving or gravel but increase for fun occasionally.

 

Enjoy trying the different options.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Brian said:

Congrats on that early 04.

 

You should receive some good advice from the members on here.

 

It is quick and easy to change the optional parameters so feel free to experiment.

 

I like to use greater timing for the efficiency and I go easy on the rail pressure. TQ I use a less aggressive setting for daily driving or gravel but increase for fun occasionally.

 

Enjoy trying the different options.

 

 

Does timing give a lot of power feel as well, like torque settings do? I am not enthused about more tail pipe soot but on the timing setting #1 it doesn’t smoke at all but feels kind of laggy right now etc. I assume a trans is really going to help this as well especially a more efficient convertor. 

 

Thanks for the reply! A lot of great info on this forum! 

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Indeed, Timing will add more power, better mpg, and less EGT.

 

For certain a built trans will help get that torque to the ground.

 

Thank you!

 

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2 hours ago, Brian said:

Indeed, Timing will add more power, better mpg, and less EGT.

 

For certain a built trans will help get that torque to the ground.

 

Thank you!

 

Just to be positive the highest timing is on level 1 on the smarty touch right? Not level 3? 

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Now that depends on the year of truck. Dylan has placed up a high quality detailed tuning guide that should explain in detail the tuning settings for each year.

 

 

 

Thank you!

 

Brian

 

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6 hours ago, Brian said:

Now that depends on the year of truck. Dylan has placed up a high quality detailed tuning guide that should explain in detail the tuning settings for each year.

 

 

 

Thank you!

 

Brian

 

Hey Brian thanks for the reply again. That link that you sent me seems like a quick guide and doesn’t get into year ranges of the trucks at all. I just assumed timing setting #1 was the most advanced timing you could run which is less soot and better mileage and lower egt’s so all I have run on my 04 is #1 but I can’t see how that makes sense when everything else (torque limiting and rail pressure) at all more the higher the number lol 

 

this is why im kinda confused... 

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Indeed it is confusing as different years the timing setting numbers are different. The 5.9 CR trucks setting 1 for timing is your "Greatest".

 

Thank you much! :drinks:

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1 hour ago, Brian said:

Indeed it is confusing as different years the timing setting numbers are different. The 5.9 CR trucks setting 1 for timing is your "Greatest".

 

Thank you much! :drinks:

Lol perfect! Okay I think I’m set thanks again for the help!! 

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On 5/22/2018 at 11:05 PM, Leez2wags said:

Hey smarty people! 

 

Just got my 2004 CTD (early 04) 

 

been playing with the smarty touch I got for it, loving the fuel mileage on Sw5 and Sw7 so far been great. 

 

Trans is stock and I just have a cold air and a straight 4” exhaust on it as well as running loyds fuel additive to hopefully keep the high pressure system happy for many more miles.

 

i do have a race trans (NADP) in mind for it if I do start to have issues with mine and I’m defiantly replacing it before I do a large RV trip to Ontario from Alberta later this July! 

 

Okay for one one small question... I got my love for this truck after a friend of mine bought an 06 mega and and ran a smarty jr. on the 100hp tune. That truck was an animal. Just loved how much raw power it had. 

 

Now ive been running my truck with the smarty recommended settings (all on 1) in SW#7 and it all doesn’t seem that crazy really. 

 

Should I be messing with the timing and torque settings to better manipulate the tune to be a bit more aggressive? 

 

Im going to start with setting 2 and 2 on rail and torque settings and see how it feels. I do monitor egt’s and mine aren’t terrible so im

debating running timing on setting 2 as well. 

 

I assume this should make the truck noticeably more aggressive? And some more down low torque once the Convertor is locked? 

 

Any feedback is appreciated! 

 

NADP has good warranty on their transmissions.  Depending on the application you intend for your truck, such as towing, may not want to go with a full out race transmission.  Your torque converter stall speed wouldn’t be proper for towing applications or daily driving.  A full built transmission is definitely a good place to start but go with a transmission built for your intended application of the truck.  If you decide down the road to upgrade fuel components like injection pump and injectors, NADP uses Industrial Injection, don’t let them sell you on Industrial Injection.  Speaking from experience on Industrial Injections injectors and injection pump. 

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On 5/22/2018 at 11:05 PM, Leez2wags said:

Hey smarty people! 

 

Just got my 2004 CTD (early 04) 

 

been playing with the smarty touch I got for it, loving the fuel mileage on Sw5 and Sw7 so far been great. 

 

Trans is stock and I just have a cold air and a straight 4” exhaust on it as well as running loyds fuel additive to hopefully keep the high pressure system happy for many more miles.

 

i do have a race trans (NADP) in mind for it if I do start to have issues with mine and I’m defiantly replacing it before I do a large RV trip to Ontario from Alberta later this July! 

 

Okay for one one small question... I got my love for this truck after a friend of mine bought an 06 mega and and ran a smarty jr. on the 100hp tune. That truck was an animal. Just loved how much raw power it had. 

 

Now ive been running my truck with the smarty recommended settings (all on 1) in SW#7 and it all doesn’t seem that crazy really. 

 

Should I be messing with the timing and torque settings to better manipulate the tune to be a bit more aggressive? 

 

Im going to start with setting 2 and 2 on rail and torque settings and see how it feels. I do monitor egt’s and mine aren’t terrible so im

debating running timing on setting 2 as well. 

 

I assume this should make the truck noticeably more aggressive? And some more down low torque once the Convertor is locked? 

 

Any feedback is appreciated! 

 

NADP has good warranty on their transmissions.  Depending on the application you intend for your truck, such as towing, may not want to go with a full out race transmission.  Your torque converter stall speed wouldn’t be proper for towing applications or daily driving.  A full built transmission is definitely a good place to start but go with a transmission built for your intended application of the truck.  If you decide down the road to upgrade fuel components like injection pump and injectors, NADP uses Industrial Injection, don’t let them sell you on Industrial Injection.  Speaking from experience on Industrial Injections injectors and injection pump. 

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13 minutes ago, cummins1984 said:

 

NADP has good warranty on their transmissions.  Depending on the application you intend for your truck, such as towing, may not want to go with a full out race transmission.  Your torque converter stall speed wouldn’t be proper for towing applications or daily driving.  A full built transmission is definitely a good place to start but go with a transmission built for your intended application of the truck.  If you decide down the road to upgrade fuel components like injection pump and injectors, NADP uses Industrial Injection, don’t let them sell you on Industrial Injection.  Speaking from experience on Industrial Injections injectors and injection pump. 

Sounds good, ya I spoke with them about trans needs already and I would probably be fine with a “heavy hauler 450 wheel horse” trans but buddy there said the race trans (800hp built with billet shafts, and extra clutch packs in 3/4) would be better suited to me if I even plan on running the higher tunes and additional torque the touch is capable of. He did recommend a higher stall dual disc billet convertor instead of their usual triple disc in the race trans I guess with our colder temps up here as well the lower stall can affect (negatively) some driveability in colder temps. So they recommended a different option. I would still like a triple disc if they could find one to work that wouldn’t be as aggressive at lower rpms or towing but I will

look into that next month! For the 2000$ difference in price between 450 hp and 800hp I feel like I should buy once cry once and just get the race trans with a suitable converter for towing. 

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If I had an automatic I would just go with a fully built tranny which I’m guessing is what they are calling their race transmission but select a properly suited torque converter and valve body setup.  Talk with other reputable vendors as well to get better ideas and cost like Goerend or smartyresources counterpart, source automotive.  I believe Redline Diesel Power out of Ohio has good reputation on the transmissions they build as well. 

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6 minutes ago, cummins1984 said:

If I had an automatic I would just go with a fully built tranny which I’m guessing is what they are calling their race transmission but select a properly suited torque converter and valve body setup.  Talk with other reputable vendors as well to get better ideas and cost like Goerend or smartyresources counterpart, source automotive.  I believe Redline Diesel Power out of Ohio has good reputation on the transmissions they build as well. 

I’m in Edmonton and they are just down the street from where I work and seem very knowledgeable. I believe they’ve been building their transmissions for the cummins for like 10 years now. That being said a race trans is reasonably priced at 5600$ cdn. And their heavy hauler is about 3600$ cdn. 

 

I’m a licensed mechanic here and I looked at building my own actually and by the time

i got done with a respective mild build list I was almost around 3000$ so for someone else to build it and warranty it for marginally over that I’m all on board lol. The major difference they told Me with the race trans was billet shafts, extra clutch packs in gears 3 and 4 and a full billet convertor (triple disc) as well as deep pan. The heavy hauler trans actually has a bored valve body, billet convertor (twin disc) along with upgraded solenoids but no billet parts and no deep pan. 

 

I was surprised to hear that was the only differences but I believe that makes sense for the added costs of the race trans. There’s a few reputable bulilders in Edmonton that offer similar transmissions but the warranty on the NADP sounds better than anywhere else. Plus even if I relocate they literally only need transmission fluid bills to prove new fluid was installed and they will warranty the trans as well as ship me a new one anywhere in the country after diagnosis. 

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