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War Eagle

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  1. War Eagle

    ABS Settings

    If your speedo is slower than your gps, then I think you want the tire diameter to be smaller so that the the speedo goes faster to match the gps reading.
  2. War Eagle

    Smarty noob and horse beater

    I have the Smarty S06 on an '05 5.9 Cummins. I also use the Edge Insight for gauges and backup camera. I like the device very much. The Edge Insight will control the POD function of a Smarty that has the POD capability. It will not adjust other features of the Smarty S06. Depending on how old your Insight is you may have to update the software so the Insight has the POD control feature on board. This may require a call to Edge to give them your Insight serial number then download this feature from the Edge web site. Once the Insight software is loaded then there is a menu feature on the Insight that you have to go in and turn the POD feature on. Once that is done your Insight will allow you to adjust the POD feature of the Smarty regardless of what SW level you you have downloaded from the Smarty. I believe it works the same way for the Jr.
  3. War Eagle

    Best setting for milage

    I also drive with the SW9 setting. It took me awhile to get to SW9 because I tried all SW settings to see for myself which one worked with my driving style and what my truck liked. I have always had gauges to watch key parameters. I got to using SW9 with timing on 2 with my stock tranny and got better mpg's with it. I drove thousands of miles with that setup and never had a single problem. Over the years I have added a Pac-Brake and have upgraded the tranny for towing purposes because I purchased a heavy camper and tow a boat. I still run SW9 when towing and just watch the gauges to keep egt's in check under heavy load. SW9 has advanced timing over the lower SW settings and that seems to help my truck get better mpg's. If you can't control your right foot then SW9 would not be a good idea to run on a stock tranny.
  4. War Eagle

    A few upgrades and a little maintenance!

    Hello AveryFisher, "free and easy feeling" is a comment due to the driving improvement from the free wheeling hubs. Loss of rotating mass on the front end was a big improvement in driving the truck. Can't say I noticed any change due to the front links being replaced. But then again I don't road race or drive aggressively. Just got back from a 6000 mile trip to Florida and got my best mileage ever in winter driving. :happy:
  5. War Eagle

    Air Dam Mod

    I saw somewhere on one of the Dodge/Cummins forums that it was possible to modify your air dam by attaching a Gen 2 air dam to the Gen 3 air dam. I kind of liked the look of the deeper air dam so I thought I would look into it and see if I could make it work. The air dam also has a purpose of moving air down under the truck to help reduce the drag on the underside of the carriage (thereby helping mpg's on the truck). Now since I also have a Gen 2 vehicle it was pretty easy to measure things and evaluate whether it would fit well enough that I could be happy with it. I took a few pictures along the way to document what I saw as I made the mod and what it looks like when it was finished. First two are pictures showing the height of the existing Gen 3 air dam and what you see under the truck looking at the air dam level. You can see that the bottom of the stock Gen 3 air dam is a little less than 17" from the ground (with my 19.5's on) and you can see what hangs down from the undercarriage below the bottom level of the air dam. Looks like a perfect place for lots of air turbulence and drag. I ordered an aftermarket Gen 2 air dam on ebay and got free shipping and it cost me $64. I didn't want to spend a lot of money to try this out so I decided to go the ebay route rather than buy from the dealer and save myself over a hundred bucks. When the part arrived I was pretty impressed. Very good quality and thick material and wasn't flimsy at all. So I got a couple of small 'C' clamps and clamped it in place on the lip of the existing Gen 3 air dam. When I was happy with the centering of the unit (both side to side as well as back to front) then I drilled holes in the lower lip of the Gen 3 air dam and bolted the two versions of the air dam together. I used large pan head 5/16 x 18 screws with washers on both the top and bottom lips where the air dams are joined. On the end of the Gen 2 air dam I had to muscle the curvature of the air dam to better match the curvature of the Gen 3 air dam. Turns out the Gen 3 air dam is a little wider with a slightly different curvature as the end turns back toward each wheel. But everything bolted together pretty well and it looked like it was made that way. Pictures 3 & 4 show the installed product The last picture from the front is to show the new ground clearance of the air dam as well as how it has now covered up a lot of the undercarriage that was visible previously. Haven't been out much on the road yet so I can't tell if there is any measurable benefit ( but I will be hoping). :hyper:
  6. As mentioned above I have an Edge CTS Insight that I use for gauges and I monitor trans temp via the obdII port. I rarely see temps above 200 degrees when working the truck on hot days. Highest temp I have ever seen was 240 and that was only for a few minutes within just a few hours of doing a heavy duty trans rebuild and I was pulling a small trailer in town. Never seen it since.
  7. War Eagle

    19.5 inch conversion

    One thing I am learning about the 19.5's is to monitor and adjust the air pressure per the load and to be faithful in keeping up on it. The tires have a very stiff sidewall and tread area and I have to say that I haven't always reduced tire pressures after I am done towing so I've driven around with the higher tire pressures needed for the load. I think that the tire patch in contact with the road must change without the load and high tire pressures because the tires feel much looser on there grip. This is somewhat noticeable on quick maneuver turns. When I lower the tire pressure to match the unloaded weight of the truck I don't have that same feeling on quick maneuver turns. I am guessing the tire contact patch returns to the normal. I am also convinced that the 19.5's have significantly lower rolling resistance than my stock 17" tires and this seems to offset the increased rolling mass of the 19.5's so that my mpg's are every bit as good or better than I get when running my 17" tires.
  8. The '05 has a tranny temp reading supplied to the transmission control module by a thermistor. The temp readings are used to control engagement of 4the gear overdrive clutch, the converter clutch and governor pressure. The thermistor is part of the governor pressure sensor assembly and is immersed in transmission fluid at all time. A thermistor is basically a resistor that changes value as it is heated and is commonly used for measurement and control. There is a page (21-1140) in the service manual that talks about its function relating to transmission controls. The obdII port can read this temp. I run an Edge CTS Insight connected to my obdII port and monitor this temp all the time. If your Smarty touch can read this output then I would think you should be confident you are reading the internal trans temp. :thumbsup:
  9. Ball joints needed replacement so I thought I would tackle that job myself and then at the same I would install my Spyntech Shorty free wheel hubs that have been sitting in my garage for over a year now. I also had a steering brace that I wanted to get installed. While I am at it I thought I might as well do a needed brake job and replace the u-joints on the stub shafts since I had everything apart. I think doing all this work at once actually will save me a significant amount of time over doing each job separately when everything reached the end of its life. I replaced my front sway bar links as well because the bushings are coming apart and look very tired and worn. I have always noticed the fuel tank has a strong vacuum pull every time I opened the cap to refuel. Thought maybe cap was bad but then did a little research and found the cap is not vented by design. Tried to look at the tank fittings while the tank was still on the truck and couldn't really see things well enough to come to any conclusion. I was looking for mud and debris build up around what I thought might be the the tank vacuum relief valves. So I decided it was time to drop the tank and take a better look and see if I could figure out what was going on. While I had the tank down I decided to install a new tank fill vent on the highest portion of the tank so as to improve the filling experience (read as: shorten the time to fill the tank). So I removed the in-tank pump and looked in the tank and found some interesting things. Some sort of particles setting in the tank that I had to clean out. One thing that didn't look right to me is each of the rollover/vacuum relief valves had a cap on them. So I can't understand how they could possibly work when they were capped off. I wonder if the caps weren't installed when the tank was manufactured and shipped to the truck assembly plant but were not removed when the tank was installed and hooked up in the truck. I am now thinking this is the cause of my tank vacuum problem. In fact if you look at the tank real closely you can see where the bottom and at least one side has been pulled inward. There are no leaks so the integrity of the tank is still intact but I removed those caps and installed a section of hose to each one and put a filter on each one to ensure nothing can get into the end but still remain open so a vacuum isn't pulled on the tank when fuel is being drawn down. I replaced the in tank fuel pump and re-installed the tank. It was more of a challenge for me to re-install than remove because it is fairly tight quarters to get your hands in everywhere where you need to reconnect fuel lines, electrical connections and all the hoses and clamps. But got it done in about 1 hour or so and then put in about 6 gallons of diesel so I could start the truck and take it out to fill the tank and get first impressions on driving the truck with all the updates. So I took it out to get the tank filled up with fuel and the driving seems like the front end is so free and easy feeling. Doesn't feel like the same truck. Filling the fuel tank went much faster than normal. Pump clicked off at a tad over 31 gallons. So I went 8 miles from my house to get to the gas station so even if I burned a gallon of gas to get to the station (which I am sure didn't happen) I now had slightly over 37 gallons in the tank. So i am concluding that by relocating the tank vent I have much improved my refueling experience by shortening the time to fill the tank and picking up 3 + useable gallons in my tank. Next stop was to get the front end aligned and then start checking my mileage. I have a son that is moving to Portland to go to school in the fall. Made 3 trips back and forth. 1 trip pulling a trailer loaded with household furnishing etc. Not a big one but a 6x12 flat nose which scaled at 4.5k and the bed of the truck was loaded also. GVW was at 14.9k. Got 16.2 mpg's going over and then 16.3 coming back unloaded, which I thought was not too bad. Lots of wind in the gorge on this trip Made the 2 other trips over with stuff in the bed only (did not scale the loads) and on the first round trip got 22.2 mpg and on the last one got 22.5 mpg with the 19.5s on. All hand calculated. I also had some wind through the gorge on both of those trips Nothing scientific but it is looking very positive for the freewheeling hub install. I can't say enough for how easy this thing is to drive and steer now. Don't really know how to explain it but it just feels so much freer or effortless. I'm liking things so far!
  10. War Eagle

    Pillar mount for touch?

    Here are a couple of pictures that show the Edge mounting system. If the Touch uses the same mounting systems as the Edge then this will help show you what is involved. First picture shows a sample of the plastic mount enclosure along with a rubber boot type of thing that fits into the mount and the Touch is then pushed into the rubber boot that is seated in the mount. It is a tight friction fit that allows the Touch or the Edge product to be removed and re-installed without screws, tape etc and there is no damage to the mount of the monitor. It works pretty good. The second picture shows the rubber boot inserted into the mount and before you install the monitor.
  11. War Eagle

    Pillar mount for touch?

    Amazon has one listed. http://www.amazon.com/Edge-Products-38404-Pillar-Dodge/dp/B005JIQJYE XDP also lists one which is a slighly different style. http://www.xtremediesel.com/Edge-Products-38404-CS-and-CTS-Pillar-Mount.aspx There is also a dash mount option which tucks up close to the pillar. http://www.amazon.com/Edge-Products-38304-Dash-Dodge/dp/B003TOEIVG/ref=pd_sim_263_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=08W8A20S1WDC38DPHVRK If you decide to order one of these styles just be sure to get the one that fits your model year. I use the dash mount style to mount my CTS Insight and am pretty happy with how it fits and looks. I also didn't want the window mount nor did I want the pillar mount.
  12. War Eagle


    Still don't know anything about your truck and any mods your have done, so I can't tell your more than just generalities. I am hoping you have gauges so if you run higher SW levels you should watch your gauges closely, specifically egt's. If you have stock injectors you can watch for smoke if you accelerate hard. Higher SW levels may point out any fueling issues your truck may have. If the fuel system (injectors, etc.) are in good shape and you get lots of black smoke when accelerating then you maybe weak on air. Try changing the timing level to see what your truck likes. Just because you run higher SW levels doesn't mean that you can't drive very sensibly and get good performance and reasonable economy. Your bilt tranny will give you lots of safety for towing and playing. But if you plan to race hard then you may need to think about billet shafts through out. I run SW9 most of the time and run timing on 2 and 50hp injectors. Hard accelerating at that SW level will give me some black smoke but it cleans up pretty quickly. But driving with that setting and POD set at 70-75 gives me the best mileage on the road. I tow in the hills so when towing I usually back the SW level down to help with egts. I can control egts pretty good on SW7 and no sweat on SW5 or lower.
  13. War Eagle


    I agree that you won't get the job done for $5k unless you can do all the work yourself. Besides the triple disc converter, you will want to do an valve body upgrade, clutch pack upgrade and the solenoid upgrade and I would suggest the thrust bearings be changed to rollers and also at least a billet input shaft. All this will make for a happy trans and a happy driver as well. If you have an ebrake all this work will be beneficial for your towing needs. If you plan to do any hard core racing you will want to think about billet intermediate and output shafts. Oh and don't forget your flex plate. Good luck with your plans.
  14. War Eagle

    newbie S06 settings for towing questions

    Jeff, I have a pretty similar rig as you do and I load a slide in camper and tow a boat (16GVW) and have a bilt tranny with guages so I watch things very closely. I have no trouble running timing on 2 and torque on 2 and SW level 5. I drive mostly in the NW with the hills and mountains. I have run SW 7 at times as well and have to temper the go pedal on long hill pulls cause I could see egts wanting to creep up to 1300 or so. I have been running SW9 lately so I can get the highest timing and crank the POD down to 70-75% and seem to manage the egts pretty easily. The higher timing from SW9 seems to give me help with mpgs. I didn't see any specific truck info with your signature so don't know if you have a e-brake or not but with bilt tranny and billet input shaft you should have no trouble running one. They are a nice safety addition in the hilly country.
  15. War Eagle

    19.5 inch conversion

    I sure like them. They do well for me. I just took my 19.5s off in late October and have been running the Michelin LTX M/S2. Will put the 19.5s back on in late March or April so I can load the camper back on.